Yang & Yum gives Delhi cold weather comfort with pho, khao suey, and steaming dumplings

Yang & Yum gives Delhi cold weather comfort with pho, khao suey, and steaming dumplings

Yang & Yum home delivers Japanese, Chinese, Burmese and Thai dishes that warm the heart

There is an old jungle saying (one of my own, I must admit) that I try and follow. If the air is cold and crisp, the food should be warm and soft. That explains why I have been countering this cold spell with steaming dim sums. I mentioned the mouth-watering momos I had last week, but now I must tell you about the delicious Prawn Har Gao dumplings (₹350) that did a jig in my heart a few days ago that came from Yang & Yum. The casing was delightfully thin and translucent; the filling was soft and warm.

I had quite a few (with home-cooked broccoli soup), and then focused on the other appetisers from the eatery: fiery salmon sushi, Katsu chicken volcano (₹335 for four) and chicken and chives dumplings (₹295). I have always held that if you get your sushi right, you are on the correct track. These rolls were perfect: soft within, but with a mildly vinegary rice coating.

The menu — with Japanese, Chinese, Burmese and Thai dishes — is an interesting mix, with dishes such as the Vietnamese pho, southeast Asian laksa and Burmese khao suey. I wanted to taste some of their Thai dishes, as I have been a diehard fan of the cuisine ever since I visited Thailand some years ago and discovered the unadulterated joy of its fish and meat dishes. I had Yang & Yum’s Chiang Mai banana leaf fish (₹475), Bang Bang chicken (₹395), diced chicken in black bean sauce (₹345) and minced chicken in Thai basil (₹345).

I must admit that I was a bit nervous when I saw that two of the chicken dishes looked almost the same – dark in colour and thick in texture. But the tastes turned out to be remarkably different. The diced chicken consisted of chunks of chicken steamed in black bean sauce. It was pleasantly spicy, and I enjoyed it as much as I did the minced meat, which came wrapped in a sauce flavoured with basil leaves. The somewhat fiery Bang Bang chicken (crispy fried chicken in a hot and sweet sauce, a roadside favourite) was superb.

The fish, however, was disappointing. The fillet marinated in a Thai curry paste came wrapped in a makroot leaf, but I felt the spices that the fillets had been coated with were a little raw.

The outlet delivers food across Delhi and NCR (12 noon to 2 am; 7860000420). The menu includes chicken chilli oil dumplings, a Kowloon special (with spicy chilli oil, ₹295) and Drunken Chicken Kwei Chow (Mongol inspired sliced chilli wine chicken with crisp spinach, ₹425). There are options for vegetarians, too, including Thai curried veg dumplings (₹245), and Guangzhou mushroom and asparagus dumplings, flavoured with spicy chilli oil (₹275).

Yang & Yum is good news. The food is excellent, the packing sturdy, and the prices are reasonable. It is a good way to usher in the New Year.

The writer is a seasoned food critic

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